Nuwara Eliya, a journey to the Up-country

Everyone in Kandy recommended to visit the Up-Country enthusiastically. My Heart of Yoga teacher connected me to her student, Coralie Suriyapperuma in Nuwara Eliya. Communication was a bit hectic those days, but as I got to know that they run a hotel actually, everything quickly shaped out. Suriya Hotel is an authenthic and beautiful place to rest and practice, and I was glad to know everyone there. The journey from Kandy to Nuwara Eliya is really stunning...

(wanna see more? a one-hour youtube video about this train journey here )

Nuwara Eliya, the city of light

It was quite cold in Nuwara Eliyan evening where I have arrived (esp. compared to the hot Tamil climate under the sun.) The town is also called 'Little England' due to it's buildings and weather. It feels the same indeed – up to 25-30 in sunshine, when wind and vapor hides the Sun, and it drops down to 15, really British. It was a sort of resort establishment for the British merchants and governors during the colonial time - and everything saved in well condition. When I walked around Gregory lake, saw horses around the race field, and a lovely couple got married, they had a photo session, very cute ^^

The great thing about Suriya Guest House (besides the comfort and drinkable tapwater), that the cuisine is really delicious: you can choose between continental and Sri Lankan meals, especially if you are interested in tasting (or learning) āyurvedic recipes. Yoga classes are provided by Coralie. We had amazing conversations, as she is an expert in marma therapy and āyurvedic dietry. There are all kind of herbs in her garden, its really lovely (but do prepare for the British weather :).

Mahā Eliya Thenna (Horton)

We set off to Mahā Eliya Thenna with one of the guests next day early morning. Actually it was a good idea, as we had really nice conversation during the whole day. We shared a tuktuk, and arrived before sunrise. Just like us Nature was barely awake.

I loved the idea of zero-plastic at the entrance!! They removed all possible plastic waste, and checked our bags to avoid littering inside the park.

Mahā Eliya Thenna means “the hugely lighten ground”. This is the Sinhala name of the plains (Horton was the name of a British Governor only.) It's story leads back to Rāmāyaṇa, where Hanumān set fire a whole plain, and local folk tales sais that fire lasted for a long time. (Wiki sais "The upper layer of soil can be seem in a blackish grey colour. There had been some soil tests done by local universities,and it revealed that upper layer contains a high amount of Ca carbonate and Potash")

The national park has very rare species of plants and animals, and provides an unusual habitat for them, as these plains are the headwaters of three major Sri Lankan rivers, the Mahaweli, Kelani, and Walawe. It has the most extensive area of cloud forest still existing in Sri Lanka. I really liked the trilingual explanatory boards all around, one can learn about cloud forest, rare species, of course invasive species and so on. We have seen birds, lizards, a sambar deer, beautiful plants..

To see the cloud mountains – and the valley between them - we had to climb the heights of the World's End, and it was rewarding us with a spectacular view (above). At that part we joined to a group of German youngsters, so it was even more cheerful onwards :)

We could wander among the hills until Baker's Falls - it was a real refreshment to see so much water. The special thing completely took me down was seeing the orchids crawling near the waterfall, they literally drank the water spray. It was so beautiful...

(not sharing a pic here, makes no point..)

The whole area reminded me a little of the classic movie “Treasure of Silver Lake” from our childhood.

I remember this whole day was so beautiful, seemed like a dream or a memory.

With healers

The last day before Ella Coralie took me to a local professional āyurvedic doctor, who inherited all her knowledge from her grandmother. She was very simple and humble, but from the smells of oils and herbs I was sure she is doing magic with her treatments. She was reknown based on her time schedule (I was shifting the previous patient.)

Decided to make my knee checked. She asked the case history, examined as an average doctor would, than started to apply huge doses of oil on my legs and, gave recommendation how to treat it, including two bottle of thailas. I was extremely grateful for this. After that we had one of the most surprising conversation.

- So who is healing really? - she replied to herself - Jesus does. Are you a Christian? - asked me

- No. I have no religion. I practice vipassana and yoga, and I believe that God is consciousness.

- And you? Are you a Christian? - she asked Coralie turning to her.

- No. Im a buddhist. But I believe in God. And you? So are you protestant? 

- No. Im a buddhist too - she smiled - and I believe in Jesus.

Usually we identify ourselves with the upbringing or the ethical system we can identify with.. from then on, however, it is up to us. small Baháʼí paradise..